Tenlog TL-D3 Pro : Test and review the IDEX 3D Printer

This post is also available in: Français (French) Deutsch (German)

Tenlog is a Chinese-based 3D printer brand specializing in IDEX (Independent Dual Extruder) printers. Today, I am going to present the TL D3 Pro, which is an IDEX printer with a printing format of 300x300x350mm.

I obtained this machine from the Studiolab39 reseller, which is a French TENLOG reseller approved by the manufacturer. They sell this Tenlog D3 Pro printer starting at 490€, shipping fees included, 2-year manufacturer’s warranty and after-sales service in French. The machines are stocked directly at the reseller’s, so there are no customs fees to be expected… and the machines are inspected before shipping!

This is the second IDEX-type 3D printer that I have been able to test to date, Tenlog has undoubtedly become a reference for this type of machine.

Main features of the Tenlog D3 Pro :
– Dual direct drive head for printing in Dual/Mirror/Duplication mode
– Silent motherboard with TMC2208
– Heating plate (with glass plate) of 300x300mm
– Filament end detector
– Touch screen
– Resumption of printing in case of interruption

This printer is able to print PLA/PETG/TPU/PVA/ABS .

Unpacking the printer :

The machine is well packed, and the different parts are well protected, this machine is partially assembled, so it shouldn’t take much time to fully assemble, and should be suitable for beginners.

It is delivered with 2 small reels of PLA (250g each), and a set of accessories (tape for the tray, spatula, SD card…), the manual is in English (I would have liked to have translated it into French). At first glance the external components of the machine look good quality.

If you have chosen the “Luxury” version (only available at the Studiolab39 dealer) you will also receive this additional kit:

Contents of the “luxury” kit :
– 2 high-end heating blocks
– 2 thermal breaks
– 2 PTFE (capricorn) tubes for the radiator
– 2 high-end nozzles
– 2 silicone socks
– 2 backlash nuts (1 for each Z-axis)

In addition to this kit in luxury version, the machine will be fully assembled and tested in the workshop before shipment.

Printer assembly

The first step is to fix the printer gantry to the printer chassis with screws, this procedure is really very simple.

The second step consists in fixing the 2 heads E1 (left) and E2 (right) on the X axis, using 4 screws for each head. Once fixed it will be necessary to move on to the wiring, by fixing the connectors (VGA type) on the heads, I was relatively surprised to see this type of connectors, but it has the advantage of being easy and quick to connect.

Note: you’ll see on some pictures/videos of my test the cables of the filament end sensors “hanging”, I just didn’t plug them in because I was in too much of a hurry to try the printer 😉

Setting the platform level before first printing

Before starting your first print you will have to make the adjustment of the tray, this type of printer is not equipped with a self-levelling sensor, so you will have to make this adjustment using a sheet of paper.

Go to the menu “Tools”, then “Leveling”, you can then move the head to the corners of the tray and adjust the height using the wheels under the tray.

Concerning the E2 head, I didn’t need to touch it, but it is possible that it is not at the same height as the E1 head. In this case, you will have to adjust the height of the E2 nozzle using a wrench.

Adjustment of the alignment of the 2 heads

If you want to print in Dual (double color), you will have to make another adjustment, the alignment of the heads for the X and Y axes, you will find on the SD card a calibration cube, which will allow you to see if the heads are well aligned, for my part they were not aligned at all, here is the first print “before calibration” made.


Don’t panic! This is quite normal, to adjust the heads you will have to change 2 values on the printer screen, the values X2 and Y2, I advise you to change the values from 0.10 to 0.10.

I also used another STL file to check the alignment.
On the picture below it is my penultimate adjustment print (I forgot to take a picture of the last one…), you can see on it that there is still a slight offset.


You should get a final result like this, with the 2nd color perfectly aligned inside the cube. You may need a little patience to achieve this alignment, to be done only once I reassure you!

The printer is ready! By the way if you can’t do the alignment right away, you can still make “Single 1 color” prints, or use the mirror/duplication mode, this alignment will only be used for double color printing.

Slicer configuration for the Tenlog D3 Pro

You can use the slicer of your choice for this machine, just declare the presence of 2 extruders. For my part I use Prusa Slicer, which has the advantage of being perfectly optimized and intuitive for multi-extruder printers.

Here are the settings of my profile, starting from a basic profile “Creality CR-10”, for which I modified 2 values, namely the number of extruders (change to 2), and the shrink length to 1mm (for the 2 extruders).

You may be wondering how to proceed if you want to print in mirror mode, or in duplication mode?

This is very simple, you just have to integrate a single model in your slicer, the printer will directly manage the 2nd head, but you will have to align the model on the left side of your tray (as if your tray was half as wide).


You will need to go to the “Print Mode” menu on the printer to change the mode.

First impression with the Tenlog D3 Pro

And here is finally the first print made with the printer, using the filament supplied with the printer! The result is relatively clean.

For the second impression, I change the filament, this time using Creality White PLA filament, and SILK Gold Stronghero3d filament.
The rendering is much better than with the filament supplied with the printer.

Concerning the glass plate, I’m not a big fan of this type of plate, most of the time you have to put glue on it to have a good grip, for my next prints I will use a polypropylene mamorubot type plate, it’s the same format as the Creality CR-10.

Here are other prints made with the Tenlog D3 Pro printer, using PLA, Silk, PETG, and also TPU filament.
Overall these prints are very clean.

The TPU printing went perfectly with this machine, the 2 heads being in direct drive, this greatly facilitates the printing of the flexible filaments. For the PETG I had to add glue on my tray, for the other PLA and SILK filaments, no worries too.

And finally, will I recommend this 3D printer?

Multi-extrusion printing is not always easy, especially with printers that have a single head, as the nozzle can be clogged more easily than with single extrusion printing. With this type of IDEX printing with double independent heads, the settings may seem more complicated, but once set it will work much better than a single head printer!

So yes I would recommend this Tenlog D3 Pro printer if you want to do double extrusion printing, and if you are interested in printing small models in duplication mode (see mirror mode), this can be handy for some prints that you want to do in series.

The machine is relatively silent in operation, you can hear the ventilation, and when the printing is finished all the fans stop, so the machine is totally silent when it is switched on but without printing, which is not always the case with the competition.

The graphical interface of the screen is clear and easy to understand.

The only reproach I could make to this machine is its original glass plate, I would have preferred an ultrabasic plate, or even a metal magnetic plate, it will cost a 20aine of euro in improvement.

I have not yet installed the “luxury” kit, which should also improve the printing results.

Concerning the Studiolab39 reseller, with whom I had the opportunity to exchange, they are very professional and listen to customers, they are good advice, so I can only recommend to go through this French reseller who knows this product perfectly, rather than going to a Chinese reseller to save a few Euros.

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